Spring Summer '09 is all about individuality, designers are approaching the global economic issue by design based on interpretation rather than dictating a trend. There is a measured approach to the catwalks. Designers are creating clothes you want to wear the covetable piece, wearability and seduction...
Themes include orange, nude tones, op art, clashing patterns, metallic and accessible black. Focus is on the shoulders with geometric angles and asymmetry also fringing, distressed denim and sheer fabrics. Blazers and jumpsuits.
Look out for Obi belts, tribal jewellery and animal print. Plaits, pleats and buns, black eyeliner fawn like, Rucksacks and chain straps.
PREMIER VISION SPRING/SUMMER 2010
Premier Vision is considered the worlds Premier fabric show, where
Bi-annually weavers show new collections and trends are predicted.
Fabrics for Spring/Summer 2010 are textured, with random prints that are crushed and dishevelled like an artists palette, colours are mixed up clashing with each other, pastels and seaside colours plenty of blue and deep indigo denim, dirty nude and yellows. 50's wallpaper buttermilk and bubblegum pink.
www.premierevision.fr
PETER SAVILLE - HAZARD TAPE GARMENTS
Arkitip is a 112-page gloss finish, fully illustrated catalogue of Peter Saville's work with two posters Contour and Hazard.
Saville has been utilising graphic influences from Dazzle Ships for a number of years, going back to an OMD album cover (1983). Dazzle Ships were World War 1 warships that had been camouflaged in fractured and disjointed lines to confuse the enemy as to their exact size and distance.
Saville has revisited this form of graphic in Arkitip and created a hazard print and hazard tape garments.
www.designmuseumshop.com
LOVELY AS A TREE - ECO RESOURCE
Lovely as a tree was founded by Caroline Clark a graphic designer.
An independent and self funded website it seeks to 'enable and inspire graphic designers to make more environmentally friendly choices in their work'.
www.lovelyasatree.com
MARGARET HOWELL - V&A UNIFORMS
'True to the spirit of a successful modern uniform they engender a sense of belonging and pride, but fall short of bombastic jingoism'
Christopher Breward - Head of Research V&A
Margaret Howell has created new uniforms for the Victoria and Albert museum. Howell, an established name in British fashion has been quietly garnering a loyal following globally. She is particularly renown for heralding in masculine female fashion and utilising timeless fabrics such as cashmere, Melton cloth and wool.
The uniforms that Howell has developed for the V&A are an unqualified success; she was inspired by the character of the building for the colour palette and has used quality fabrics. Resourcing from British companies such as John Smedley and Sunspel. Howells approach to the uniform has meant a sympathetic response to uniform design and a resounding attention to quality.
www.vam.ac.uk
www.margarethowell.co.uk
FASHION THEORY - ECOFASHION SPECIAL
In parallel to the fashion industry's recognition that so-called 'ethical practices' are now not only necessary from a moral standpoint, but are also potentially economically lucrative, researchers and academics are now opening up the debate in 'ethical fashion', raising its profile with a series of events, exhibitions and publications. The latest of these comes in the form of a Special Issue on Ecofashion of Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture.
Fashion Theory's Ecofashion Special Issue comes at a pertinent moment in the development of eco or ethical fashion as it seeks to address some of the most important issues and dilemmas that the sector faces.
Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture - Ecofashion; Special Issue, Volume 12,
Issue 4. Available in both print format and online via subscription. Further information can be found at:
www.bergpublishers.com
LITTLE CHEF
The iconic Brand has had a makeover compliments of Heston Blumenthal and Ab Rodgers.
...it's still the Little Chef - but its better; much, much better. There's a kitsch retro sweet counter facing you as you come in; there are blue ceiling tiles with fluffy white clouds and seagulls on them; the red bar stools and booth seating have 1950s-American-diner overtones; and the kitchen is open, diner-style. The wall tiles are studded with cute quotes about food - how to tell if an egg is fresh - and the staff wear shiny new uniforms with food quotes from AA Milne, Sophia Loren and Bernard Shaw emblazoned on the back. In the loos, the busy noise of kitchen chatter is pumped through the sound system, which might occasionally break into a Spike Milligan ditty about chewing gum. There's a wit to it, an edge, a cleanness and modernity, that moves everything on while still staying very close to the brand. Ab Rogers, son of Richard, is the man behind the interior's transformation, and he's probably feeling very pleased with himself right now. And the staff are still the type of staff you would expect from a roadside caff - spotty youths and wizened old ladies - but this time they are smiley, happy, helpful, and they know and care about the food you're ordering'.
Tiffanie Darke - Times Online
www.timesonline.co.uk/food_and_drink
www.littlechef.co.uk/heston.php
VIRGIN ATLANTIC
Virgin has decided to commemorate 25 years in the air with the advert
'Still red hot', where the uniform takes centre stage.
The advert received several complaints of sexism to the Advertising Standards Authority but this was overruled.
"We considered that most viewers would understand that the ad presented exaggerated stereotypical views of the early 1980s and played upon perceived attitudes of that time in a humorous way."
It's a great advert for those looking to eighties nostalgia, with brick phones and Relax by Frankie goes to Hollywood.
www.virginatlanticstillredhot.com
UNIFORMS - BILL DUNN
Bill Dunn men's style journalist has recently published Uniforms, charting a visual history of the uniform.
www.laurenceking.com/product/uniforms.htm
VOGUE FEBRUARY 2009
The Zero Option, Alex Bilmes
Vogue touches on how as a woman it feels to wear a uniform.
The profile of the article is raised further with iconic photographer David Bailey taking portraits. The article brings to attention that in 2009 many of these women are still forced to wear a uniform that is still cut for men.
Betty Jackson who recently re- designed the robes for judges commented...
'You have to make women feel good about themselves' she continues 'If what you are wearing is uncomfortable or ill fitting, or too hot, you feel like shit. It's a scandal that there are people forced to wear something that doesn't fit properly every day. It so simple to get the cut and the fit right. We should get up to speed.'
www.vogue.co.uk